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Written by Michael Hightower
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Friday, 09 February 2007 20:44 |
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Page 1 of 5
When the good folks at 4x4 Connection (née Land Cruiser Connection) moved from Sterling, Va., to Winchester, Va., they had to get rid of a lot of stuff that was taking up space on the shelves. One item of which was a Weber 32/36 DGAV in good shape with the mounting brackets for the 2F motor.
So, I got this, a wiring harness, 3 various Aisans, and about 4 boxes of miscellaneous parts for $50not a bad deal. The most important bit was the DGAV, of course. Since there's one on the Triumph, and all three Fiats use Webers, I've gotten to know this carb fairly well. It's extremely tunable, and seems to be dead reliable.
However, to install this carb one apparently needs a throttle pedal and cable from a 40. As a result, the DGAV sat around for a while until I finally ordered the parts. In the meantime, it seemed appropriate to go ahead and get the truck ready for the carb. In so doing it was apparent that this carb will work fine with the existing linkage. And that's what this is all about.
- Remove the air cleaner and the associated vacuum lines.
- Remove all emissions controls on the driver's fender (arrow 2, Figure 1). This whole assembly may be taken out as one unit, but don't throw any of the parts away.
- Remove the steel vacuum lines which run along the front of the block behind the thermostat housing to carburettor/manifold area (arrow 3, Figure 1).
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Figure 1
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- Disconnect the carburettor linkages and vacuum lines. Disconnect steel fuel line and cap off to prevent leakage. Remove carb.
- If your air pump is still in use, remove the hose running from the air rail. This may be difficult to remove on the air rail side, so it may be taken off of the air pump side.
- Remove EGR assembly by removing two bolts on side of EGR unit, and two bolts each from the pipes going to the intake and exhaust manifolds. Do not throw away the gaskets!
- Remove the air rail. This will be very difficult to do, as the ports have most likely rust-welded themselves to the rail itself. If you're reading these instructions in advance you can try to spray the nuts down with PB Blaster. However, it probably won't have much of an affect due to the constant temperature changes that occur. Therefore, you may have to unscrew the ports from the block and simply accept that the rail will be destroyed in the process.
- Now you're ready to start installation. First you must cap off the air rail ports. This was left as the last step previously to prevent garbage from entering the holes. Use 1/4" pipe and 1/4" pipe caps to plug the holes (see Figure 2).
Bring an old port to the hardware store just to make sure you are getting the right thread (pipe thread). Wrap them in Teflon tape before installation.
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Figure 2
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Last Updated on Sunday, 11 February 2007 13:17 |
